Kilbeggan is a pure National Hunt course, situated in Co. Westmeath in the Midlands of Ireland. It has been racing since about 1840.
Getting there
The nearest large town is Mullingar. Kilbeggan is about 90km from Dublin along the M4 and takes about an hour of driving. Kilbeggan the town has a few bars, shops etc. The racecourse is slightly outside of the town in a very rural area.
The season at Kilbeggan runs from May to September. See here for details of fixtures: https://kilbegganraces.com/
The racecourse has a certain charm, it is certainly not of this century! However, it is very well-managed and well-maintained. No detail overlooked. It still retains a lot of the relics of the Victorian, or some other bygone era at least, including the entrance turnstiles.
The management team tend to generate a party atmosphere, there is a live DJ, constantly playing, breaking only for the racing, which personally I found a little distracting mid-afternoon on a Sunday, but you can distance yourself from it!
The food on offer is very traditional and of the ‘sausage and chips’ and burger type variety. In addition there are mobile units selling other food and coffee too. If you’re looking for contemporary offerings, then you’ll be disappointed, but if you were seeking that – you would probably be missing the point and charm of Kilbeggan racecourse!
For all it’s perceived simplicity, the marketing campaign around Kilbeggan’s fixtures is obviously very slick, it attracts a good crowd – both local and blow-ins. It has all the coveted style competitions too.
Summary
An exceptionally well-managed course, surrounded by natural beauty, as well as staging quality jumps racing. A must visit, if just to pause 21st century life and take a little trip back to yesteryear.
Punchestown is in Co. Kildare, just outside of Naas. It is the home of the National Hunt festival, which occurs every year at the end of April – sadly 2020 withstanding. Each year it commences on a Tuesday (around 3.45pm) and runs through until Saturday. However the key races are run Tuesday to Friday, with the Saturday being billed as day for the locals/families. The program of racing is excellent, with grade ones aplenty and also featuring the traditional Cross-Country race over the banks.
Faugheen on his way to winning the Beginners Chase at Punchestown in November 2019And after winning the Beginners Chase
Getting there
Punchestown is about 45 minutes drive from Dublin airport. You can also get to Naas by bus: https://www.buseireann.ie/ and via train from Dublin Heuston to Sallins (outside of Naas) and Newbridge (near the Curragh). See: https://www.irishrail.ie/
Accommodation
The nearest sizeable town is Naas. If visiting for the Festival, you would need to secure accommodation very early. Other places worth considering are Blessington, Kildare town, Celbridge. Other more far-flung places are Portlaoise, Athy and the outskirts of Dublin – for example Citywest Hotel: https://www.citywesthotel.com/
In Newbridge you have the Keadeen, which is a short distance from the Curragh racecourse: https://www.keadeenhotel.ie/ If staying in this area a trip to the Newbridge Silverware venue is highly recommended: https://www.newbridgesilverware.com/ As well as having a retail outlet and cafe, there is also an excellent free museum which showcases famous people’s outfits and other memorabilia. There is a great permanent exhibition of Audrey Hepburn garments, as well as those worn by Grace Kelly and Diana, Princess of Wales and much more.
The quintessential ‘LBD’ best worn by Audrey Hepburn. A temporary exhibit in 2016 at the Newbridge Silverware museum – the dress that Marilyn Monroe wore to sing Happy Birthday to President JF Kennedy, which subsequently sold at auction that year, for a record-breaking $4.8m
Eating and drinking
Most main towns in the County of Kildare, take part in the best dressed window, with the central theme being the Punchestown Festival.
As it’s such a revenue generator for the local area, most bars will offer live entertainment, so you won’t be lacking on that front.
The Osprey Hotel in Naas usually has a daily pre-raceday preview, with leading jockeys and commentators, tipsters etc. taking part.
The Ballymore Eustace Inn: http://www.ballymoreinn.com/ in the hamlet of the same name is a great spot for dining. Booking recommended.
Kilcullen has plenty of options too: Bardons: http://www.bardons.ie/ Fallons: https://fallons.ie/ Both highly recommended. The latter takes reservations, the former not.
Plenty of options in Naas to choose from, from Asian to Italian to locally sourced traditional offerings. The Lemongrass is a good easy option for Asian: http://www.lemongrassnaas.ie/
Pre-racing drinks, if you want to get away from the crowds in Naas, then Blessington is a good spot. Plenty of bars on the main street, where you will still encounter fellow racegoers, but will be able to breathe and hear one another talk!
If you are an overseas visitor and are unsure of where to base yourself, please contact me and I will be more than happy to advise.
Racecourse
If you are staying in Naas or the City Centre, there are a range of bus providers offering transport. Please visit: https://punchestown.com/ for more information.
In terms of ticket types, there are usually 2 levels – general admission which is about €30 per day and the reserved enclosure which is about €40 per day. You can get decent discounts for advance bookings. There are other hospitality options which you can view on https://punchestown.com/
Barry Geraghty in the parade ring
There is a shopping village, not on the scale of Cheltenham, but decent and with the usual outlets of paintings, sculptures, hats, country attire etc.
Punchestown has benefited from an investment programme which has added extra stand and bar capacity in recent years. Generally speaking it’s comfortable, but if you want to secure a spot for the day – early arrival is recommended.
Plenty of indoor and outdoor food offerings, everything from Irish fast-food options such as Eddie Rockets (burgers) to Abrakebabra (kebabs funnily enough…) to more finer offerings.
Rachael Blackmore, after winning on True Self, with the one of the 3 stands in the background
General vibe
Serious international racing figures attend, along with a large quotient of the more youthful local population on certain days and anyone else in-between. A real melting point of characters.
There is a daily best-dressed competition, with the final on the Friday of the week, so expect plenty of people decked out in their finery. However, anything goes – from novelty outfits, to more down-to-earth casual clothes.
It is reminiscent of a scaled down Cheltenham in terms of the party/drinking atmosphere, but not as raucous as aspects of the Cheltenham Festival can be.
Last year was a seminal year, when Ruby Walsh surprised everyone by announcing his retirement, after winning the Punchestown Gold Cup on Kemboy. There were great scenes to be enjoyed on this Wednesday.
Punchestown usually throws up an annual talking point, the previous year being Paul Townend taking the wrong course with the subsequent dual Cheltenham Gold Cup winner – Al Boom Photo.
Summary
A great few days for any hardcore National Hunt fan. A well-managed facility – you’ll have a highly memorable day or few days at this venue and for a fraction of the price of a trip to Cheltenham, with a higher degree of comfort and accessibility.
Listowel is one of 2 tracks in the County of Kerry, the other being Killarney. It stages 2 main festivals, one in June and the main Harvest Festival meeting in September. Both mixed cards.
Getting there
Listowel is in the North of the County of Kerry. It can be reached by car and a bus service on racedays. See https://www.buseireann.ie/ for details.
However Kerry, as a County has numerous options – Ballybunion, near to Listowel, then 40-45 minutes South – Tralee and Killarney and even Dingle. It just depends what you’re looking for, from your break.
Racecourse
Firstly beware of the public canteen area, it serves hot roast dinners and similar, but you are expected to stand and eat it on a bar height table. It’s far from ideal.
If you want to eat in a more civilised manner, you will have to pay for a seated 3-course lunch option in the restaurant. See here for more details: https://listowelraces.ie/
There are the usual mobile units selling local speciality sausages and similar.
Well-served with bars.
The Kerry National is the flagship race of the Harvest Festival in September, which is run on the Wednesday. Montys Pass was a previous winner of this, who of course went on to win the Aintree Grand National.
General vibe
Exceptionally popular, on the Friday of the Harvest Festival meeting in 2019, they attracted a crowd just shy of 30,000, which to put in context – the Irish Derby at the Curragh in the same year, attracted a crowd of about 12,000!
There is a Ladies Day and all the usual attractions for the kids, making for a day out for everyone.
Summary
The Harvest Festival meeting is like one big last hurrah, before the winter sets in. Fun to be had, whether you’re going there for a few drinks and the betting is a side issue, or whether you’re really into racing.
The Curragh is Irish flat racing’s headquarters. Situated in Co. Kildare, it re-opened in 2019 after a programme of re-development, which included the demolition of the old Victorian stand structure. A reduced calendar of racing was still staged at the Curragh in 2017 and 2018, including the Classics, with lesser races being temporarily loaned out to Naas & Navan.
It is also a world-class training centre and if you are interested, you can watch the thoroughbreds on the gallops each morning at various vantage points.
Curragh Gallops at Maddenstown
The new facility officially opened for business in May 2019, but was not without huge controversy and challenges for the first few meetings. By the time the Irish Champions weekend rolled around in September, it had re-gained some credibility with the racing public and there were high hopes for the 2020 season, until the Covid-19 situation scuppered the start of the calendar.
Getting there
The Curragh is about 45 minutes drive from Dublin airport. It can be reached by bus from Dublin City Centre and other places on big days. Please see https://www.curragh.ie/
The nearby village of Kilcullen has several high standard offerings, including Bardons: http://www.bardons.ie/ Fallons: https://fallons.ie/ & Crean’s Place – all of which I can vouch for.
If you want to grab a great breakfast or lunch prior to racing, Lucy’s Cafe: https://www.curraghcafebylucy.ie/ – which is on the racecourse lands is a great spot. It’s in the TRI Equestrian shop, which is to the right of the roundabout as you drive into the course.
Interior of Lucy’s Cafe at the Curragh
Racecourse
Home to all the Irish Classics, the new stand named the Aga Khan, as a nod to the lands and the finance that HH Aga Khan donated for the greater good of flat racing in Ireland. There are other high profile donors that contributed significantly, as well as the Irish tax payer.
Frankie Dettori after winning the Irish Oaks 2019 on Starcatcher
The stand is set over 4 levels. The lower ground area is a mix of bars, food outlets, betting facilities. The ground floor has a champagne bar which has an outside area where you can view the paddock. The first floor (based on 2019 detail) has a hugely popular Derby bar, which has an outside viewing area to the track. The 2nd floor is given over to members and private boxes and hospitality. However, I will update this information, once I have had the opportunity to visit the Curragh for the 2020 season!
There is also a separate walk-in bistro adjacent to the entrance turnstiles, which offers good quality sit-down hot and cold dishes.
On sunny days, there is plenty of garden furniture surrounding the paddock area, where you can relax and have a drink. You will see looming in the background an old grey tower structure, which is a building that dates from Queen Victoria’s day. This is known as the Queen’s room. On big racedays, there is usually a tour and talk by a local historian, on the background to this. During the re-development, this structure was painstakingly dismantled and put back together again, which was a great nod to the past and preservation.
In 2019 the stand was very much segregated and mostly empty because of the prevailing rules at that time. This caused much consternation and I believe for the 2020 season, there will be a much more egalitarian approach to the seating.
The seating itself is very comfortable – cushioned seating, such as that which can be found at the better premier league football clubs.
There is a food and drink village behind the ‘ring’ where local bars and restaurants showcase their wares, including Hartes of Kildare, which I would recommend for an apres-racing dinner: https://harteskildare.ie/
There is also an outdoor play area for kids and on big days, the usual face-painting and novelty characters walking about – Stars Wars figures for example, or whatever is the topical superhero of the time.
Parade ring and winner’s podium, with the Queen’s room in the background
General vibe
There are relaxed days and evenings at The Curragh, where casual dress will more than cut it. The main dressing up days are Derby day of course, The Guineas meeting (May) and the Oaks (July), as well as the Sunday of the Irish Champions weekend.
Summary
I have always loved The Curragh and really want it to succeed. It was very disappointing for all when 2019 was such a flop. There have been great days at The Curragh, including (more recently) Pinatubo winning the National Stakes on Ledger day in September 2019 and the staging of a one-off charity race to benefit the Pat Smullen Cancer trials initiative. Retired jockeys from the flat and jumps ranks, took part, with AP McCoy winning on Quizzical for Sheila Lavery – beating amongst others – Ruby Walsh, Paul Carberry, Joseph O’Brien, Johnny Murtagh and Kieren Fallon.
Watch this space for a further update on the general layout and facilities.
At the time of writing, Dundalk is Ireland’s only all-weather track, although I believe there are plans afoot for one in the Co. Tipperary region.
Getting there
Dundalk is in Co. Louth, situated about 50 minutes North of Dublin airport, and just across the border from Newry, Co. Down.
Racecourse
Car park very close to the stand – no trekking across fields! It’s a great facility – modern, spacious, set over 3 floors. Whoever planned the whole venue did an excellent job.
There is an area serving hot meals, plenty of bars and on the 1st floor you can watch the racing through the floor to ceiling windows. In keeping with the all-weather theme, there is limited room given over to an outdoor stand, although plenty of standing room on the flat tarmac below the stepped part of the stand. In the winter the ‘ring’ is inside too.
General vibe
It’s very much promoted as a Friday night party event for groups ‘Friday nights under the lights’ so can be quite lively, but there are also a lot of serious race fans in attendance too. There is usually a 9/10 race greyhound card after the horse racing finishes, so can be quite a night if you want it to be!
Summary
I would never have dreamt of going to the all-weather, but due to an involvement in a couple of horses, I have been about 6 times in quick succession and have had a fantastic experience each time (separate from the experience of having an interest in the 2 horses). The cost of food and drink is more than reasonable and looking at the promotional literature for the party group hospitality offerings, that appears great value too. Staff are switched-on and efficient and the venue is designed over a compact area, so would suit those with limited mobility – the parade ring is in very close proximity to both the stand and the viewing for the track.
A lot of horses that go on to dizzy heights had their first win at Dundalk including Caravaggio, so you never know what you might witness, on a relatively low-key outing.
Caravaggio in January 2020, standing at Coolmore Stud, Co. Tipperary
You could also treat yourself and stay in the chocolate-box village of Adare, with it’s thatched roofs.
Adare is home to the JP McManus owned hotel – the 5* Adare Manor: https://www.adaremanor.com/ – the ultimate in luxury and the venue for the 2024 Ryder Cup. I can highly recommend the Dunraven Arms just across the road, which is owned and managed by horse racing aficinados: https://www.dunravenhotel.com/ Adare has a plethora of good eating spots and bars. I can highly recommend the Wild Geese – I had one of the best meals ever here a good few years ago, so I hope it’s still as excellent.
Racecourse
As you would expect due to it being less than 20 years old, modern clean structure. I attended a meeting as part of their Christmas festival, where a best-dressed competition was in full flow. As such, it was a fairly busy day, so it was difficult enough to get near the food to see what they had to offer. I only had experience of using one of the outdoor carts, where they had a good selection of homemade cakes.
It’s a large stand, with very good viewing and a water feature in the middle of the track.
As a first time visitor, the only criticism I would have is that there wasn’t a great deal of information around, for example I went the whole afternoon without being able to find a racecard and admittedly gave up after a while.
I would like to to visit again to give it a proper appraisal, as my over-riding impression was fairly positive.
The crowd would be a mix of rural types, with a few glam ones from the cities, but very much in keeping with the rural vibe.
The unique world-famous Laytown – racing on the sands in Co. Meath. This is an annual one day meeting in early September (tides permitting!)
Getting there
Laytown is served by the mainline train from Dublin and Dundalk, depending on which direction you are coming from, see: https://www.irishrail.ie/ – and there are courtesy shuttle buses to transport you to the track. If travelling by car, as you drive into Laytown – you will clearly see the parking areas. Again you will need to get a shuttle bus to the track, or you can walk around the coast, which will take you 20-25 minutes.
The set-up!
Refraining from calling it a course! However, it is of course run under regulations, so usual IHRB rules apply.
Temporary structures are erected in terms of hospitality tents, a parade ring and other marquees containing bars and eating areas. The ‘stand’ is basically the steps down to the beach.
Punters enjoying themselves in the ‘stand’
It’s such a spectacle and very well supported year on year in. A huge amount of overseas visitors attend and it all makes for a great atmosphere in early Autumn. The biggest overseas support comes in the form of trainer Jamie Osborne and his Melbourne 10 owners group, who send a big string over each year, with varying degrees of success.
Parade ring
Local vicinity
Laytown itself has a few bars. The nearest large town would be Drogheda. If wishing to make a trip of it, you could stay in Drogheda – the main hotel is the D Hotel. Or just off the main Dublin to Belfast M1 route, there is also a large hotel called the City North. Equally, along the train line, are places such as Malahide, Portmarnock, which all have good standard hotels by the sea.
General vibe
Attracts a crowd from every strata of society. In essence it’s like a country fair, from yesteryear. There is no dress code, it’s whatever suits the prevailing weather of the day. No best-dressed, although you will see the odd lady dressed up to the nines. Anything goes essentially.
Down to the start
Summary
A once-in-a-lifetime or maybe a few times in a lifetime experience, once you get hooked. Do be prepared for a degree of a lack of comfort, appreciating that it is a temporary structure. You can find places to sit if you’re smart and you can always sit on the steps overlooking the action. Or sign up to hospitality, but it sells out very quickly, early on in the calendar year for that year’s fixture.
Racing on ‘The hill of Crockafotha’ has taken place since 1726. Bellewstown is a picturesque, compact, track in Co. Meath. It stages summer festivals in July & August.
It’s probably most notorious for the betting coup of Barney Curley and his plunge on Yellow Sam. The phone box from which this were done, takes pride of place on the course.
Getting there
Bellewstown is best reached by road, unless you are part of a group going by bus. Racing usually starts late afternoon, so if you want to while an hour away, there’s a good bar directly across the road from the course.
Racecourse
While it may be light on facilities, it more than compensates by way of drawing in great attendances and therefore a very lively atmosphere.
There are dining facilities there, but mainly of the sausage and chips variety. I cannot comment on hospitality, but there is a tented area given over to this, for those that prefer.
There’s always live music and getting a drink with ease, isn’t a problem at all.
Summary
A broad cross-section of attendees makes for a thoroughly enjoyable evening. The racing is not the highest of quality but highly competitive and a winner’s a winner! Most people make it an annual event including me – such is it’s unique charm.
Footnote
If after racing you want to go for something to eat, I would recommend the Lime Kiln at Julianstown: http://www.thelimekiln.ie/ The Lime Kiln is about a 10 minute drive away from Bellewstown.
One of Ireland’s top dual purpose tracks, which as well as staging the hugely successful Dublin Racing Festival (in 2021 it will be the 4th year of this event) and of course is home to the Irish Champion Stakes, which is held every September, as part of the Longines Irish Champions Weekend. See https://www.leopardstown.com/ for further information. And https://www.curragh.ie/ for details of the 2nd day of this event, which includes the Irish St. Ledger.
The Irish Champion Stakes has thrown up some glorious duels down the years – perhaps the most memorable one being the re-match of Galileo and Fantastic Light in 2001, but the cast list down the years is simply illustrious.
Getting there
Leopardstown can be deemed a City track, it’s on the Southside of Dublin City Centre and has easy access off the M50, the main arterial route around Dublin. From Dublin airport, it will take approximately 35 minutes in a taxi. It can also be reached by Dublin aircoach https://www.aircoach.ie/ If you are staying in the City Centre, you can also reach by LUAS (the Dublin tram system). You need to join the green line at St. Stephen’s Green and alight either at Sandyford – where on big days there is a courtesy bus to the racecourse, or Central Park, where you can easily walk into the course.
For those slightly less mobile, there are plenty of golf buggies, transporting people from the car parks to the entrance turnstiles.
Accommodation
You don’t need me to delve into detail on this blog, for hotel options, but if you want close proximity to the racecourse, the 3 nearest hotels are: Clayton Hotel at Leopardstown: https://www.claytonhotelleopardstown.com/ and the Talbot Hotel at Stillorgan: https://www.talbothotelstillorgan.com/ The Beacon Hotel is not too far away either https://www.thebeacon.com/ – The Beacon would be about a 15-20 minute leisurely walk to the course, as would the Talbot.
Racecourse
The facility at the time of writing, is coming to the end of a period of substantial investment and redevelopment. Older racegoers may remember the Jodami bar which was a popular haunt, but the main stand has been totally revamped with a great selection of drinking and eating options. Plenty of hospitality options if you want comfort – see https://www.leopardstown.com/ for further information.
I would recommend on the bigger days – the Christmas Festival, Dublin Racing Festival and the Champion Stakes – to pay for a dedicated seat in the upper stand, unless you want the hurly-burly of the lower part of the stands. However, generally, you would find a quiet spot on the flat tarmac below the stands.
On those big days, the bars and other food outlets are extremely congested, so careful planning and patience is required.
A good spot to aim for if not in hospitality, is the 3rd floor of the main stand. There is lots of comfortable seating, bar, coffee dock and food offerings, as well as a balcony that overlooks the parade ring. If you’re with others and you get a pew, I would advise staying there for the day, taking it in turns to to go and watch races, paddock watching etc.
On the 1st floor as you’re going up the escalators, do stop off and look at some of the racing paraphernalia, which includes Pat Eddery’s Dancing Brave colours.
General vibe
It very much depends on the event. Leopardstown stage a highly successful summer series, where after racing there is a live band performance, so very much anything goes, as these evenings also attract non-racing aficiandos. The Longines Irish Champion Stakes, comes with the usual best-dressed contests, so this is the day to don the finery. The winter meetings, comfort and warmth are the maxim.
Summary
A better mix of an annual racing programme, would be hard to find anywhere. Absolutely superb meetings to choose from, whatever is your want.
Easy to get to, with full facilities across all areas. From takeout van food, to fine-dining.
The only minor criticism I would have is that sometimes it is very evident that there is a lack of staff training in the food/drink outlets and this can be frustrating.
Is there a more uniquely beautiful backdrop to a racecourse, than that of Killarney’s mountains and lakes on a summer’s day or even a misty one?
Killarney, Co. Kerry – otherwise known as ‘The Kingdom’, is in the South West of Ireland. It’s a tourist hotspot, so nearly all-year round, plenty of life to be found in the town itself.
Getting there
There is a local airport – Kerry airport at Farranfore, which has limited routes, within Ireland and to the UK. Outside of that Cork is the nearest international airport, which is about 50 minutes drive away.
Killarney’s train station is centrally located in the town, so if arriving by train and you are staying in town, you can just walk to most hotels.
Accommodation
Killarney has accommodation to suit all budgets, from hostels, to B&Bs and guesthouses, to the 5* hotels like the Killarney Park in the centre of town and any range of hotel in between. I always stay at the McSweeney Arms Hotel: https://www.mcsweeneyarms.ie/ Good value, comfortable, friendly owners, with a superb breakfast and more central a location you could not get.
Terrace of 5* Hotel Europe, Fossa, Killarney
Food/drink
Again, Killarney has an abundance of options here, you won’t need a guide to help you on your way here. Recent additions to the dining scene which I can recommend are: The Mad Monk and Kitty O’Se’s – predominantly fish restaurants.
Racecourse
The racecourse is situated on the Ross Road, which on foot would take you about 20-25 minutes to walk from the centre of town. There is parking – both on the course and in the surrounding residential area.
There are no enclosures, it’s usually a flat entry fee of €20.
There is a mix of National Hunt & flat racing, with some mixed cards.
In July & August there are best-dressed competitions for both ladies and gentlemen, so the style factor tends to be high on these days.
There is a restaurant for the general public which offers a good standard of food, although the dining area might be lacking for the more sophisticated punter. Hospitality packages are available in the annual members block for day visitors.
The bars are lively and on the big days packed to the rafters. I would probably recommend the 1st floor bar of the 1st stand on your left as you come in, which also has good viewing to the winning post. The other main bar is tucked under the 2nd stand closer to the parade ring, but this gets really swamped. This is also where the restaurant is.
General vibe
A broad spectrum of racegoers, from the local farmer, to the blow-ins from other parts of Ireland and beyond. It’s a real party atmosphere, probably in part due to Killarney being a really social town and the fact that their racing takes place in the (hoped for) sunny halcyon days of summer.
Summary
A great, informal experience at one of the world’s most scenic tracks. Friendly, easy-going, the quality of racing couldn’t ever be considered as ‘must see’, but many a future star has broken their maiden at Killarney, such as Kew Gardens.
Racecourse Guides 